Frequently Asked Questions

A frame jig, also called a frame fixture or frame welding jig, holds the individual parts of a frame in alignment while you cut, fit, and weld.

Chop Source frame jigs are modular and adjustable: individual fixtures and brackets bolt to steel tubing you supply, so one jig can be set up for many different frames and changed as your projects change.

You can build a frame from scratch or modify an existing one, such as hardtailing a motorcycle, changing the rake, or stretching a frame. We offer frame jig bundles for motorcycles, bicycles, and mini bikes, and customers have also used our fixtures for trikes, e-bikes, and other custom projects. Builders also use the jig to measure and check alignment during a frame repair.

Chop Source frame jigs are centerline jigs: the Neck Fixture (Head Tube Fixture on bicycle jigs), the Bottom Bracket Fixture, and the Axle Plate Fixture or Rear Axle Fixture all center on one line down the middle of the jig, and that line is also the centerline of your frame. Because everything shares one center, you can check any tube, mount, or axle by measuring from the jig's centerline, and you can quickly see whether the left and right sides of the frame match. Many customers use a line laser projected from the back to check tubing alignment. Centerline jigs have great welding accessibility and are easy to use.

No. A frame jig holds parts in alignment while you build or weld, and it can help you measure and replace sections of a bent frame, but it isn't designed to pull a frame back into shape.

Probably. Since 2012, Chop Source frame jigs have been used all over the world on thousands of projects. Because the jigs are modular and adjustable, almost any motorcycle, trike, bicycle, or mini bike frame can be built or modified with the right fixtures. Check each fixture's description to make sure it fits your needs. Depending on your frame and what you're doing, you may need to make some of your own fixtures, supports, or mounts. Our Base Clamps and Clamp Bars let you add uprights and cross members anywhere on the jig.

If you value accuracy, safety, and professional results, a jig can prevent costly mistakes. And because our jigs bolt together, they're easy to take apart and store, and we've seen customers' used jigs sell quickly when they no longer need them.

Check out our Facebook and Instagram pages for hundreds of build photos and videos from our customers.

Start with the type of frame you're working on: motorcycle, bicycle, or mini bike. Motorcycle and bicycle each have a Basic and a Full bundle, and mini bike has one. Compare Frame Jig Bundles shows every bundle side by side, with what each includes and its current price. Every bundle costs less than buying the same parts separately.

The Full bundles add more fixtures to the Basic ones, so the jig is more complete out of the box. Some customers choose a Basic bundle because they plan to make certain parts themselves. Compare Frame Jig Bundles shows exactly what each Full bundle adds.

You don't need a separate bundle for each kind of frame. The bundles share many of the same fixtures, so you can start with one bundle and add the parts the others need. Compare Frame Jig Bundles shows what to buy for each combination of motorcycle, bicycle, and mini bike frames.

Yes. Every fixture, bracket, and clamp in our bundles is also sold on its own, so you can start with a bundle and add fixtures as your projects grow. Many parts work with more than one type of frame jig.

No, it's optional. Every Chop Source frame jig works on a table or motorcycle lift without it. The Rotisserie Stand raises the jig to a comfortable working height and lets you turn the frame to reach every joint, so you never have to weld upside down. It works with the motorcycle, bicycle, and mini bike frame jigs, and you can add it later. It has its own bundle discount and free shipping to the lower 48 states.

A frame jig holds and aligns your frame while you build or modify it. It isn't a frame kit: the bundles don't include frame tubing, engine mounts, axle plates, or the structural tubing the jig itself is built from. Axle plates, hardtail kits, and mounting tabs are sold separately.

Both hold and align the tubes the same way. Our steel cones are zinc-plated. The stainless steel cones are machined from 303 stainless: they're slightly harder, have a cleaner finish, and resist corrosion better, especially if you live near the coast. Some customers choose stainless simply because they want the nicer version.

Both do the same job. The Frame Jig Swivel Leveling Feet have a larger footprint and a nicer look, and they swivel up to 15 degrees for uneven floors. The standard Frame Jig Feet use carriage bolts and are the economical choice.

Call or text us at (651) 300-9575 or email sales@chopsource.com. Tell us what you're building, and we'll help you choose the right bundle and fixtures.

Our frame jigs are built from 2"x2" and 2"x3" steel structural tubing, which you buy locally. Use tubing with an 11 gauge (.120") or 1/8" (.125") wall. You can go thicker if you already have it or want to. The instructions for each bundle include a cut list with every piece and length.

Structural tubing should be available locally at a metal supply store or welding and fabrication shop. Many will cut it to length for a small fee. Search for "metal supply near me" or "steel supply near me".

Yes. All fixtures work with 2"x2" tubing, so you can use 2"x2" tubing instead of 2"x3" tubing. However, if you use 2"x2" tubing for the main rails of the jig, make the 4" spacers in the cut list (in the instructions) from 1"x2" tubing to leave room for the nut welded to the spacer.

Yes. All fixtures work with 50x50mm tubing, and 50x50mm tubing can be used for every part of the frame jig. If you use 50x50mm tubing for the main rails, make the 4" long spacers in the cut lists from 25x50mm (or 20x50mm) tubing to leave room for the nut welded to the spacer. Most people use tubing with a 3mm wall.

Yes, but keep in mind that some of the jig's tubing has a nut welded to it or spacers welded into it. For the rotisserie stand uprights, you'll need your own aluminum spacers, and for the Frame Jig Feet, Adjustable Width Fixture, and Bottom Bracket Fixture, you'll need to work out how to attach the Clamp Bar.

Yes. Printed instructions come with every bundle and fixture, and each bundle's product page links to its instructions as a PDF. They include the tubing cut list, so we recommend reading them before you order.

Not much. A few spacers and nuts are welded to tubing for the Frame Jig Feet, the Adjustable Width Fixture, and the Bottom Bracket Fixture, and the Rotisserie Stand's upright spacers are welded. The instructions show each one.

It depends on the frames you plan to build. A drag bike needs a longer jig than a hardtail on an old Triumph. Our instructions are based on 6' main rails, which work for many frames. For a Yamaha XS650 frame, 6' rails allow up to an 11" stretch with the Axle Plate Fixture pointed to the rear, or over 17" without the rotisserie stand, since the rear upright for the Rotisserie Brackets isn't in the way. The Harley-Davidson Big Twin frame in some of our product photos could be stretched about 8" with the rotisserie stand, or about 14" without it. You can build the jig for the projects you have in mind and buy longer rails later if you need them.

Yes. Because the jig bolts together, you can make it longer by swapping in longer main rails, with no cutting or welding of the jig itself. Making the upright for the Neck Fixture (or Head Tube Fixture) taller is just as easy.

A completed jig is about 6' long, 2' wide, and 3.5' tall. With the Rotisserie Stand, it's about 7' long, 2' wide, and 5.5' tall. The jigs are almost completely bolt-together, so they can be taken apart for storage. Many customers replace the feet with casters to make moving the jig around the shop easy. Stemmed casters with 1/2"-13 threads can replace the leveling feet and still let you level the jig.

Yes. The Frame Jig Neck Fixture and the Head Tube Fixture are exactly the same part, and the Neck Cones and Head Tube Cones are exactly the same too. Motorcycle builders call it the neck and bicycle builders call it the head tube, so we list each part under both names. Order whichever name you prefer; you'll get the same part.

On a motorcycle or mini bike jig, the Frame Jig Neck Fixture sets rakes from 15 to 60 degrees, measured from vertical. On a bicycle jig, the Head Tube Fixture sets head tube angles from 30 to 75 degrees, measured from horizontal. These are the same angles: bicycles are measured from horizontal, and motorcycles and mini bikes from vertical. If you need the threaded rod more vertical, it can go to 90 degrees: flip the rod block around and remove the center 7/16" bolt. The center bolt can still be used if the fixture is mounted on a 2"x2" upright.

The Axle Plate Fixture is made for motorcycle axle plates with long slotted adjustments: it holds two threaded rods, which keep the axle plates level and in line. The Rear Axle Fixture holds a single dummy hub, threaded rod, or piece of tubing in line with the rear axle, so it suits frames with a single axle bolt hole or a short adjustment slot. It isn't only for bicycles and mini bikes; it works for motorcycles too. If your frame doesn't use long slotted axle plates, the Rear Axle Fixture is likely the better fit.

Match the rods to the slots in your axle plates: 5/8" rods for 17mm slots, 3/4" rods for 3/4" or 20mm slots, and 1" rods for 1" or 25mm slots. The Axle Plate Fixture has holes for all three sizes. Each set includes two 14" threaded rods, two 8" spacers (cut them to make four spacers that space the axle plates away from the fixture plates), and one 2" spacer that goes between the fixture plates on the outer rod. Cut the spacers to length based on the distance between your axle plates. On the Full Motorcycle bundle, you choose the rod size as an option.

To locate a swing arm pivot, most customers use the Rear Axle Fixture with a custom spacer made to fit the pivot, held in place with threaded rod running through it or with tapped ends and bolts. If you already have the Axle Plate Fixture and your swingarm uses a 3/4" pivot bolt, you can slide the fixture forward and hold the pivot with one of the 3/4" threaded rods, using spacer material from the 3/4" Threaded Rods With Spacer Material.

At this time, we don't make engine or transmission fixtures for any specific brand of motorcycle. However, many of our jigs are sold to customers building or modifying Harley-Davidson frames.

Chop Source fixtures and frame parts are designed and made in the USA by Trav, LLC, a veteran-owned small business in Roberts, Wisconsin. Some hardware, and resale items like iGaging tools, may be made elsewhere. Check the product page when country of origin matters.

Yes. U.S. orders of $99 or more ship free to the contiguous 48 states, Washington, DC, and APO/FPO/DPO addresses. That includes heavy orders like frame jig bundles. Free shipping doesn't apply to Alaska, Hawaii, U.S. territories, or international orders.

Yes, we ship to 29 other countries, including Canada, the UK, Australia, Japan, and much of Europe, though shipping can be expensive because most of our products are heavy. To see rates, add items to your cart, click Checkout, and enter your address. International rates don't include import duties, taxes, or customs charges. If you need shipping to another country, contact us.

We ship with USPS, UPS, and FedEx, and most customers will see all three at checkout, where you choose your delivery method and see transit times. Transit times don't include our handling time.

Orders typically ship out in 1 to 2 business days (handling time). If we are behind, a notice at the top of the site will provide details. Estimated days in transit for each shipping option are shown at checkout, before payment. To estimate when your package will arrive, add the handling time to the transit time. International orders take longer in transit, depending on the shipping option you choose and how long your order takes to clear customs.

Large orders, such as frame jig bundles with additional items, may ship in more than one box. Each box is typically 50 lbs or less, and most of our boxes aren't very big. If you're using a freight forwarder or need the weight and box sizes for your order, contact us before you order.

Yes, but only with USPS. If you're shipping to a PO box, choose a USPS option at checkout, not UPS or FedEx.

Yes. New, unused items can be returned within 30 days, less a 12% restocking fee, and the customer pays return shipping. Used, installed, modified, or damaged items can't be returned. Please contact us before returning anything. Full details are in our refund policy.

Contact us within 5 days with your order number and photos and we'll make it right. If we sent the wrong item, we pay the return shipping.

Yes, on eligible orders. Shop Pay Installments and PayPal options like Pay in 4 and PayPal Credit may show at checkout. What you see depends on your order and your account.